About Julia K. Hughes
Julia K. Hughes is President of the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA), which represents brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers based in the United States and doing business globally. She represents the industry in front of the U.S. government as well as international governments and stakeholders, explaining how fashion companies create high quality jobs in the United States and economic opportunities around the world.
An expert on textile and apparel trade issues, Julie has testified before Congress and the Executive Branch. She frequently speaks at international conferences including the China & Asia Textile Forum, Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), Harvard University’s Bangladesh Development Conference, MAGIC, Prime Source Forum, Vietnam Textile Summit, and others.
Julie served as the first President and is one of the founders of the Washington Chapter of Women in International Trade (WIIT) and is one of the founders of the WIIT Charitable Trust. She also was the first President of the Organization of Women in International Trade (OWIT). In 1992, she received the Outstanding Woman in International Trade award and in 2008, the WIIT Lifetime Achievement Award. She also is a member of the International Women’s Forum.
Julia has an M.A. in International Studies from the Johns Hopkins School of Advanced International Studies and a B.S. in Foreign Service from Georgetown University.
The interview was conducted by Leah Marsh, a graduate student in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware. Leah’s research focused on exploring EU retailers’ sourcing strategies for clothing made from recycled textile materials and fashion companies’ supply chain and sourcing strategies.
The interview is part of the 2023 Cotton in the Curriculum program, supported by Cotton Incorporated, to develop open educational resources (OER) for global apparel sourcing classes.
FASH455 Global Apparel & Textile Trade and Sourcing 
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, the question of why we can’t make it all in the US is a key topic of discussion. The global supply chain of the fashion industry is an intricate web of interconnected relationships. While it is theoretically possible to bring all fashion production back to the US, it would be an oversimplification of the intricate system that has developed over the years. Julia Hughes talks about the key factors driving diversification strategies in the fashion industry today and the importance of sustainable and responsible sourcing, as well as addressing the challenges presented by the textile waste industry. Fashion production is deeply intertwined with the strengths and relationships found in different countries, particularly in Asia. China, for example, has been a key player in the global fashion industry, but it is the diversity and skill sets of many Asian countries that make the industry robust. Utilizing different countries for various types of products helps streamline the supply chain and reduce costs, making it difficult to centralize production in the US. Similarly, a diversification strategy has become a key goal for many US companies. The unpredictability of the world, exemplified by events like the COVID-19 pandemic and the supply chain disruptions that followed, highlighted the benefit of using this strategy. Relying on multiple sourcing destinations provides a safety net when unexpected disruptions occur, ensuring a more resilient supply chain. While Asia remains a dominant force, exploring other countries and regions for potential sourcing is another strategy US companies are adopting.
Furthermore, Julia discusses dealing with textile waste and initiatives the USFIA is taking to create a more sustainable and responsible sourcing approach for the fashion industry. The textile waste industry is a challenge that needs addressing. Education plays a vital role in transforming consumer behavior towards more sustainable choices. Increasing awareness about the environmental impact of fast fashion and the benefits of recycling and upcycling can drive a shift towards a more sustainable shopping approach. Moreover, traceability ensures that products are not tainted by unethical labor practices or unsafe working conditions. As an industry, it is essential to avoid products originating from regions like Xinjiang, known for human rights abuses, and prioritize responsible sourcing. Defining sustainability in fashion is a complex endeavor, but it is crucial for the industry’s long-term health. The UN Sustainable Development Goals offer a comprehensive framework for evaluating sustainability. Initiatives such as fiber development with the US cotton industry, circularity programs, and responsible sourcing practices are making strides in the industry. Sustainable practices extend beyond the initial creation of products to address the issue of textile waste. Transforming used clothing back into fibers for new products is a complex but necessary step towards circularity. The fashion industry is also actively pursuing traceability to ensure that products are not associated with forced labor, child labor, or unsafe working conditions, taking a step towards a more ethical and sustainable industry.
After watching this interview, there were a lot of interesting points made. One particular takeaway I had relates to Julia Hughes’ response to practicing sustainable and responsible sourcing. As she discussed, the concept of sustainable sourcing is so vast and can be hard to define nonetheless, circularity and traceability have proven to be emerging trends. Specifically, her point about circularity and its difficulties was interesting. That is, brands and retailers have found it difficult to practice proper waste management when clothes/fibers are donated. As a consumer, I understand that simply donating old clothes might appear like the final stage however, Hughes emphasized that many subsequent decisions occur after this process, especially surrounding how the fibers can be used. This reinforces that there truly is a lot of education needed, meaning sustainability is the future, and with organizations like the U.S. Fashion Industry Organization (USFIA) more and more consumers, brands, and retailers can learn from each other about how to refine and modernize their sourcing practices. Another takeaway I had relates to Hughes’ remark about specialization and how different supply chains/manufacturers excel in certain aspects (ex: some supply chains might be better at knits, cotton, synthetics, etc). In relation to Asia, as they are currently one of the top suppliers, Hughes discussed how she foresees them continuing to “remain strong” with the understanding that diversification is the future. This core concept that different countries have different strengths and weaknesses relates back to a lot of our class discussions. In fact, the USFIA’s useful slogan – “fashion made possible by global trade” – connects back to concepts like globalization, the factor proportion theory (global specialization in either labor or capital), the flying geese model (more advanced economies take on more capital/technology manufacturing), etc. Overall, fashion is simply a global industry and relies heavily on the relationship with different countries and their own abilities. This interview brought light to the fact that without global perspectives, the industry would be much different. Therefore, I was inspired by Hughes’ advice to “pay attention to the world around you”, especially since there is a lot of unpredictability and global risk with sourcing. Nonetheless, curiosity and having an open mind seems like the best way to create a positive future.