Publications

Selected Refereed Journal Publications

Lu, S. (accepted). Is Sub-Saharan Africa ready to serve as an alternative apparel sourcing destination to Asia for U.S. fashion companies? A product-level Analysis. Competitiveness Review.

Marsh, L., & Lu, S. (2024). Importing clothing made from recycled textile materials? A study of retailers’ sourcing strategies in five European countries. Sustainability, 16(2), 825. [Full text available]

Laurits, H., & Lu, S. (2023). Exploring U.S. Retailers’ Merchandising Strategies for Adaptive Clothing: A Focus on Product Assortment and Pricing Practices. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education. ahead of print https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2288124

Lu, S. (2024). Impact of textile raw material access on CAFTA-DR members’ apparel exports to the United States: A quantitative evaluation. Journal of the Textile Institute,115(4), 544-552. [full text available]

Lu, S. (2023). Explore U.S. retailers’ sourcing strategies for clothing made from recycled textile materials. Sustainability, 15(1), 38. [full text available]

Keegan, M. & Lu, S. (2023). Can garment production survive in a developed economy in the 21st century? A study of “Made in Ireland”. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel. ahead of print.  https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-09-2022-0113

Botwinick, A. & Lu, S. (2022). Explore U.S. retailers’ merchandising strategies for clothing made from recycled textile materials. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 16(2), 131-140.

Merryman, L., & Lu, S. (2021). Are fashion majors ready for the era of data science? A study on the fashion undergraduate curriculum in U.S. institutions. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 14(2), 139-150. [full text available]

Keough, K., & Lu, S. (2021). Explore the export performance of textiles and apparel “Made in the USA”: A firm-level analysis. Journal of the Textile Institute, 112 (4), 610-619. [full text available]

DuBreuil, M. & Lu, S. (2020). Traditional vs. big-data fashion trend forecasting: An examination using WGSN and EDITED. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 13(1), 68-77.

Lu, S. (2018). What will happen to the U.S. textile and apparel industry if the NAFTA goes? Margin: The Journal of Applied Economic Research, 12(2), 113-137.

Lu, S. (2017). Trans-Atlantic Trade and Investment Partnership: An Opportunity or a Threat to the EU Textile and Apparel Industry? Journal of the Textile Institute, 109 (7), 933-941.

Lu, S. (2016). Impact of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) on U.S. Textile and Apparel Manufacturing: A Quantitative Evaluation, Journal of International Trade Law and Policy, 15(3), 134-152.

Lu, S. (2015) Does Japan’s accession to the Trans-Pacific Partnership mean an opportunity or a threat to the U.S. textile industry? A quantitative evaluation, Journal of the Textile Institute, 106(5), 536-549. [This study is cited by: the United Nations Economic and Social Commissions for Asia and the Pacific (ESCAP) research paper  The economic impact of Trans-Pacific Partnership: What have we learned from CGE simulation? (AWP No. 157) in July 2016.]

Lu, S.(2015) Impact of the Trans-Pacific Partnership on China’s textiles and apparel exports: A quantitative analysis, The International Trade Journal, 29(1),19-38. [This study is cited by: Congressional Research Service (CSR) report prepared for members of U.S. Congress: U.S. Textile Manufacturing and the Proposed Trans-Pacific Partnership Agreement (September 2016)]

Lu, S. (2013). Impacts of quota elimination on world textile trade: A reality check from 2000 to 2010, Journal of the Textile Institute, 104(3), 239–250.

Lu, S., & Dickerson, K. (2012). The United States-Korea Free Trade Agreement (KORUS) and its impacts on China’s textile and apparel exports to the United States, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 28(5),300-314.

Lu, S., & Dickerson, K. (2012). The relationship between import penetration and the operation of the U.S. textile and apparel industries from 2002 to 2008. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 28(3), 119-133.

Lu, S. (2012). An empirical study on the impacts of quota elimination on world clothing trade from 2000 to 2009, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 16(3), 306-326.

Zhang, S.Y.,& Lu, S. (2010). World economy and export dependency of China’s textile industry. Journal of Donghua University(English Edition), 27(5), 623-627.

Ha-Brookshire, J., & Lu, S. (2010). Organizational identities and their economic performance: an analysis of U.S. textile and apparel firms of U.S. textile and apparel firms, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 28(3), 174-188.

Lu, S., & Ha-Brookshire, J. (2009). Regional production network led by the U.S. textile industry and the impact of the 2006-2008 U.S.-China textile agreement. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 6(2),1-11.

Book Chapters

Lu, S. (2019). Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP): Impact on the integration of textile and apparel supply chain in the Asia-Pacific region. In Shen, B., Gu, QL., Yang, YX (Eds), Fashion Supply Chain Management in Asia: Concepts, Models and Cases. Springer.

Chi, T., & Lu, S. (2020). Fashion supply chain: Domestic vs. offshore sourcing. In Karpova, E. (Ed), The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical And Sustainable Solutions. Fairchild Book. [full text available]

Peer-reviewed Case Studies

Lu, S. (October 2022). Apparel Sourcing in the Shadow of the US-China Tariff War. London: Bloomsbury Academic.

Lu, S. (December 2021). Responding to Allegations of Forced Labor in the Cotton Supply Chain: A Challenge for Ethical and Sustainable Apparel Sourcing. London: Bloomsbury Academic.

Lu, S. (2021). Gap Inc’s sourcing dilemma: Stay or leave China. In Fashion Business Cases: A Student Guide to Learning with Case Studies (edited by Leslie Davis Burns). London: Bloomsbury Academic.

Lu, S. (2021). How to promote human rights through apparel sourcing and trade? Debate on terminating Cambodia’s eligibility for EU’s Everything But Arms’ program. In Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases. London: Bloomsbury Academic.

Brady, S., & Lu, S. (2020). Managing used clothing trade. In Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases. London: Bloomsbury Academic.

Lu, S. (2019). Gap Inc’s sourcing dilemma: Stay or leave China. In Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases. London: Bloomsbury Academic.

Lu, S. (2018). Textile industry versus apparel industry: Trade policy in the world of global supply chain. In Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases. London: Bloomsbury Academic. 

U.S. Fashion Industry Benchmarking Survey

This annual study is conducted in collaboration with the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA). Based on a survey of executives from leading U.S. fashion brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers, the study examines the business environment, fashion companies’ sourcing practices, and the business impacts of U.S. textile and apparel trade policies. This study is regularly featured in the press and quoted in government reports, international organization research publications, and academic papers.

Lu, S. (2023). 2023 fashion industry benchmarking study. Washington, DC: United States Fashion Industry Association.

Lu, S. (2022). 2022 fashion industry benchmarking study. Washington, DC: United States Fashion Industry Association.

Lu, S. (2021). 2021 fashion industry benchmarking study. Washington, DC: United States Fashion Industry Association.

Lu, S. (2020). 2020 fashion industry benchmarking study. Washington, DC: United States Fashion Industry Association.

Lu, S. (2019). 2019 fashion industry benchmarking study. Washington, DC: United States Fashion Industry Association.

Fashion Industry Benchmarking Studies 2014-2018 are available HERE

Other Technical Papers

Lu, S. (2023). U.S. Apparel Sourcing from CAFTA-DR and U.S. Textile Exports: Myth vs. Reality. Coalition for Economic Partnerships in the Americas (CEPA). Washington, D.C.

Lu, S. (2022). Expand U.S. Apparel Sourcing from CAFTA-DR Members and Solve the Root Causes of Migration: Perspectives from U.S. Apparel Companies. Coalition for Economic Partnerships in the Americas (CEPA). Washington, D.C.

Selected Refereed Conference Proceedings (Abstracts)

Lu, S. & Laurits, H., (2024) China Versus the Rise of Asian Alternatives: A Product-Level Analysis of U.S. Apparel Sourcing Patterns, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 80(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.17201

Lu, S., (2024) U.S. Fashion Companies’ Evolving Sourcing Strategies: A Case Study on PVH Corporation, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 80(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.17200

Lu, S., (2022) What Factors Shape Textile and Apparel Regional Trade Patterns?, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 78(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.13325

Lu, S. & Merryman, L., (2022) Apparel Supply Chain Transparency: Where is the Weakness? A Case Study on VF Corporation, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 78(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.13324

Siqueira, A. G. & Lu, S., (2022) What Affects the Patterns of Used Clothing Exports?, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 78(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.13466

Lu, S. & Davis, E., (2022) Which Apparel Sourcing Factors Matter?, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 78(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.13467

Lu, S. & Langro, V., (2022) How Has COVID-19 Affected Apparel Exports From China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh?, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 78(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.13334

Brady, S. & Lu, S., (2019) How to Regulate Used Clothing Trade: Lessons from the U.S.-East Africa Trade Dispute on Used Clothing Import Ban, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 76(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.8244

Lu, S. (2018). Evaluation of the potential impact of CPTPP and EVFTA on Vietnam’s apparel exports: Are we over-optimistic about Vietnam’s export potential?, International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Cleveland, Ohio.

Lu, S. (2019). Does the U.S.-China tariff war benefit or hurt the U.S. textiles and apparel industry?. International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Las Vegas, Nevada.

Lu, S. (2017). Why is the utilization of U.S. free trade agreements falling for apparel imports?. International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, St. Petersburg, Florida.

Lu, S. (2016). Diversification or concentration: Explore the global sourcing strategy of U.S. apparel firms, International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Vancouver, British Columbia.

Selected Editor-Reviewed Publications

Delaye, E., & Lu, S. (2023). US apparel brands 2024 sourcing strategies amid rocky geopolitics. Just-Style.

Laurits, H., & Lu, S. (2023). Sourcing opportunities for sustainable apparel ‘Made in the USA.’ Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2023). Key trends to watch as world clothing trade moves from China to wider Asia in 2023. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2023). How Asket is achieving apparel supply chain traceability. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2023). Should the US apparel sector prepare for recession or recovery?. Just-Style.

Lu, S., & Botwinick, A. (2023). US fashion companies’ evolving sourcing strategies – a PVH case study. Just-Style. 

Lu, S. (2023). Is China a business opportunity or liability for fashion companies in 2023?. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2022). World Textiles and Clothing Trade in 2021: A Statistical Review. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2022). Patterns of US apparel trade and sourcing: latest trends and outlook. Just Style.

Lu, S. (2022). Four-year review: US-China tariff war and apparel sourcing. Just Style.

Marsh, L. & Lu, S. (2022). Unleashing the potential of Europe’s recycled clothing market. Just Style

Lu, S. (2022). Asia triumphs in June despite US apparel sourcing diversification efforts. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2022). What Do Fashion Companies Say about Vietnam As an Apparel Sourcing Base? Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2022). U.S. apparel import and sourcing trends (updated May 2022). Just-Style.

Crispin, L., & Lu, S. (2022). The rise of the online secondhand clothing business. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2022). Japan’s apparel market has strong sourcing potential. Just-Style.

Lu, S., & Matteson, A. (2022). How can the ‘Made in the USA’ apparel market reach its full potential?. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2022). China remains dominant player for apparel US imports in early 2022. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2022). US apparel imports patterns: Trends and critical issues to watch in 2022. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). China takes the lead with US apparel imports in October 2021. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). Why does the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership matter to apparel? Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). Apparel supply chains tackling climate change. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). Clean energy and the fashion supply chain – latest corporate strategies. Just-Style.

Botwinick, A., & Lu, S. (2021). Market promising for clothing made from recycled materials. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). What does China’s membership in CPTPP mean for apparel trade?. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). US apparel imports statistical review (Sep 2021). Just-Style

Lu, S. (2021).  World textiles and apparel trade amidst a pandemic – statistical review 2021. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). VF Corp’s strategy on sourcing from China. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). The plan for China textiles and apparel over the next 5 years. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). US apparel import data – the year so far Just-Style.

Davis, E., & Lu, S. (2021). How the pandemic has shifted US apparel sourcing strategies. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). What Biden’s first 100 days say about his approach to trade. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021). US-China tariff war – The textile and apparel hit-list. Just-Style.

Langro, V., & Lu, S. (2021). Sourcing’s new order – Covid’s impact on world’s top three apparel exporters. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021).4 key US apparel import trends to watch in 2021. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2021).Regional supply chains still shape textile and apparel trade. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2020). Why the new RCEP trade deal matters to apparel. Just-Style.

Girard, M. , & Lu, S. (2020). Second-hand strategies – Resale retailers’ product and pricing trends. Just-Style.

Langro, V., & Lu, S. (2020). US-UK Free Trade Agreement: What Does it Mean for the Apparel Industry? Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2020). Five ways world textile and apparel trade is changing. Just-Style.

Keough, K., & Lu, S. (2020). US-Kenya trade deal – Here’s what the apparel industry wants. Just-Style.

DuBreuil, M. & Lu, S. (2020). Canada’s clothing market – Top selling and sourcing trends. Just-Style.

Keough, K., & Lu, S. (2020). ‘Made in the USA’ textiles and apparel – Key production and export trends. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2020). Covid-19 – The worst-case scenarios for apparel sourcing. Just-Style. 

Lu, S. (2020). US apparel sourcing patterns are changing. Here’s how. Just-Style.

Langro, V., & Lu, S. (2019). What’s in store for UK apparel sourcing as Brexit beckons. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2019). Challenges for sub-Saharan Africa as an apparel sourcing hub. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2019). Latest trends in world textile and apparel trade. Just-Style.

Leon-Kelly, C., & Lu, S. (2019). Explore the merchandising strategy for sustainable cotton apparel in the U.S. retail market. Apparel Magazine

Lu, S. (2019). How are trade tensions accelerating China sourcing trends?. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2019). How the tariff war is shifting ‘Made in China’ sourcing strategy for U.S. apparel retailers. Apparel Magazine.

Kaucic, N. , & Lu, S. (2019). A deep dive into the global market for sustainable apparel. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2019). China tariff war – the impact on US textiles and apparel. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2019). Why USMCA is a balanced trade deal for textiles and apparel. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2019). ‘Made in the USA’ apparel – Who’s selling what and for how much?. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2019). Why tariff barriers remain a key challenge for apparel sourcing. Just-Style.

Luetje, J., & Lu, S. (2018).How do apparel sourcing shifts impact the bottom line? . Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2018). How regional supply chains are shaping world textile and apparel trade. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2018). New NAFTA 2.0–The devil is in the detail. Just-Style.

Brady, S., & Lu, S. (2018). Why is the used clothing trade such a hot-button issue? Just-Style

Lu,S. (2018). EU textile and apparel trade–Four things to know. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2017). Five key trends in world textile and apparel trade. Just-Style.

Lu, S. (2017). Creating high-quality jobs in the US textile and apparel industry. UD Biden Institute.