About Ally Botwinick
Hi! My name is Ally Botwinick, and I am a University of Delaware alum who studied Fashion Merchandising and completed the 4+1 master’s program in Fashion and Apparel Studies. I am currently working as a Textile Assistant at The Kasper Group in NYC. The Kasper Group is a portfolio of global fashion brands such as Nine West, Anne Klein, Kasper, Le Suit, and Jones New York. I work on fabric sourcing and production for the Jones New York brand as well as denim fabrics for all brands within the Kasper Group.
Note: During her studies in the FASH 4+1 program, Ally participated in several research and experiential learning projects. She co-authored Explore PVH Corporation’s Evolving Apparel Sourcing Strategies, published in Just-style, a leading industry publication focusing on apparel trade and sourcing. Her master’s thesis, which examined US retailers’ merchandising strategies for clothing made from recycled textile materials, was published in the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology, and Education. Ally was also a UD summer scholar and a key member of the FASH students team that helped Macy’s develop a vision of its sustainable apparel sourcing strategy (see featured UDaily story and Yahoo). Additionally, Ally was a policy intern for the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) in Washington, D.C. in the summer of 2022.
Disclaimer: The views expressed in this interview are those of Ally Botwinick and do not reflect the views or positions of her employer or any affiliated organizations.
Sheng: What are your main responsibilities as a textile assistant? What does a typical day look like? What aspects of the job do you find particularly interesting or unexpected before taking on the role?
Ally: My main responsibility as a Textile Assistant is to help buy and keep track of all fabric orders for Jones New York as well as denim for multiple brands within the Kasper Group. Jones New York has both a mainline division, which is sold at retailers such as Macy’s and Dillard’s, as well as an off-price division called Jones New York Signature which is sold at off-price retailers such as TJ Maxx, Marshall’s, Burlington, Ross, etc..
During a typical day, I communicate with textile mills/factories overseas about fabric approvals or rejections based on fabric color, quality, and hand feel. For each fabric order that we place, we have the mills submit fabric references to our New York office for review. Each morning, I process these submissions and work with my team to release comments to the mills. The color must match the color standard we send them at the beginning of production. The fabric quality must match the fabric standard that we approved upon booking the fabric.
We keep track of all these approvals and rejections in what is called a fabric WIP (work in progress) chart, where we keep track of each order for each season and division. This WIP chart includes key fabric information, price, production timelines, and fabric submit status, among other order details. Creating and updating these fabric WIPs is something I do continuously throughout the day as I receive updates from mills and factories.
I frequently work with cross-functional partners, like members of the design, production, costing, and color teams, and touch base about any changes to design boards, production schedules, costing, or color issues that may arise.
One of the most interesting aspects of the job is the number of teams that collaborate on a daily basis, especially when there are updates made to the fashion collection, such as changes to color names, production units, production schedules, fabric details, and costs.
Sheng: In general, what factors should be considered when selecting textile raw materials, such as fabrics, in product development and sourcing?
Ally:Some important factors to consider when selecting fabrics are hand feel (whether the fabric feels soft, dry, smooth, rough, etc…) and price. We want to ensure the fabric provides comfort to the consumer and that it will drape well according to the garment design. We work very closely with the design and costing teams when sourcing fabrics as we must ensure fabrics are functional, stylish, on-brand, and meet margin goals.
We highly consider the fiber content as well. Fiber costs can be influenced by a multitude of factors, even including the weather or occurrence of natural disasters which can affect supply and demand. We also closely monitor cotton traceability as there are forced labor concerns with cotton grown in parts of China. We require each mill supplying fabrics made with cotton to submit a cotton traceability certificate for us to track the cotton’s origins. This way, we can ensure no cotton is being produced in association with forced labor.
Sheng: What are the main processes involved in selecting and sourcing textile raw materials like fabrics?
Ally:At my company, the Fabric Research & Development team is more involved in finding new fabrics, whereas my team is more involved in fabric buying and production. The design and R&D team usually hand off the desired fabrics to us after sourcing, and we go ahead and buy the fabric. We buy fabric yardage according to the number of units (garments) in the collection, accounting for the different sizes and colorways.
However, we do occasionally get involved in the sourcing aspect as well. When we source fabrics, we consider the factors I mentioned such as cost, quality, and fiber content. We also think about how we may want to elevate and bring newness to the brand.
When adding certain washes or finishes to fabrics, the appearance can change, so this is something we consider as well. When purchasing a new novelty fabric such as a new jacquard, velour, or cross-dye, we expect the mill to tell us if there is a certain inherent characteristic we should know about prior to booking. For example, a mill might tell us the fabric is known to flare a bit, and this is hard to control, or it tends to shrink a little when washing. This way, we can decide whether the fabric is acceptable based on our needs. If we decide to purchase, we then collaborate with internal cross-functional partners about creating a level of tolerance accounting for these inherent characteristics.
Upon booking any fabric, we always require mills to fill out a fabric detail sheet with information such as cuttable width, weight, price, MOQ (minimum order quantity), lead time, etc… and we have them send us a fabric header which becomes our fabric standard. The design team will also request a sample garment to ensure the fabric is suitable for the garment. All these processes are essential for booking fabric.
Sheng: Where do textile raw materials typically come from, or which countries or regions mostly supply textile raw materials for US fashion companies today?
Ally:Some of the top countries supplying fabric for U.S. fashion companies include China, Vietnam, South Korea, and India. Also, from my observation, Asia plays a significant role as a leading textile raw material supplier for many leading U.S. apparel brands and retailers.
Sheng: From your observation, how has sustainability influenced the selection and sourcing of textile materials for fashion companies? What emerging trends are worth watching?
Ally:From my observation, sustainability is becoming more and more important to brands and consumers alike. Recycled polyester is on the rise as more consumers are paying attention to the materials in their clothing and trying to lessen their environmental impact. Recycled polyester seems easier to incorporate rather than, say, recycled cotton, which is harder to trace back to the source and has quality concerns. I see recycled materials on the rise in my company, and as someone who wrote my master’s thesis on this topic, it is very exciting and encouraging to see.
Sheng: Based on your experience, can you offer any advice to our students regarding preparing for a career in the fashion apparel industry? What could they do at UD?
Ally:Some advice I would give to students preparing for a career in the fashion industry is to think about what classes at UD most intrigued and inspired them. There are so many different career paths within the fashion industry, whether it be design, product development, sales, merchandise planning, costing, garment sourcing, fabric sourcing, merchandise buying, etc… Whatever you are most passionate about, go after it. Also, keep an open mind. You may find a great opportunity that you hadn’t previously considered, and you may end up loving it. There is so much to be learned in any given role, especially when starting out. Throughout my role, I have learned not only the ins and outs of the fabric production cycle, but also the entire garment life cycle. I can see how all the teams within my organization work together to achieve a common goal.
UD has so many amazing resources to utilize for planning your future career. First, take advantage of the career center by meeting with a career counselor and updating your resume and LinkedIn. Next, consider doing a research project with a professor on a topic you are passionate about. There are so many professors in the fashion department who would be happy to chat about research opportunities, and having this experience can really help you stand out during the job search and interview process. Internships and retail experience are also great ways to gain work experience while in school. Lastly, lean on your network. If an alum you know has a career that sounds interesting to you, reach out to them and ask them for a quick phone call to learn more about it. It is great to build your network and learn more about different potential career paths. Overall, my greatest advice is to truly enjoy your college years- they go by so fast. Make the most of your time at UD, pursue your passions, and remember that exciting opportunities lie ahead!
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FASH455 Global Apparel & Textile Trade and Sourcing 
I really appreciated hearing Ally’s experiences working for The Kasper group. Seeing that her job entails multiple roles, lots of hands-on work, and forming connections (including making calls with factory mills and companies overseas), shows me how many different aspects of production are integrated in the fashion industry- some that people, like myself, might not even think about. As a senior, I do appreciate hearing perspectives from those who have graduated, and learning how they navigated post-grad and getting jobs in their chosen career. Something that stood out from this interview was her response to the things she looks for, when selecting raw materials. The actual feel of the material is something that I think we all may think about when we think of sourcing, but one that companies pay close attention to, as the real-feel of material can directly affect their brand. Something that was sort of new for me was the idea of cotton traceability; I really love how the company she works for prioritizes ensuring that the cotton they use for their brand is one with ethical and sustainable practices, since they require the cotton mills that they source from to submit a “cotton traceability certificate” that allows them to look at all aspects of the cottons production. Fiber content, which was also mentioned in the reading, is something that I particularly look at when I purchase things like beddings and/or blankets, but I don’t do it as often when I purchase garments. I think this article really allowed me to see things from an industry perspective, and really opened my eyes to the different decisions that people in the fashion industry make on a daily basis!
I really enjoyed learning about Ally’s experience at the Kasper group as a textile assistant. Some key takeaways from this interview are Ally’s main responsibilities. She helps to buy and keep track of fabric orders which is an important part to ensure things run smoothly. A typical day for her involved a lot of communication, it is key to stay in close contact with mills and factories overseas. It really helps to show how connected every aspect of the fashion industry is. I also really enjoyed hearing how certain factors must be considered when selecting textile materials. Hand feel and price are two main factors and companies must pay close attention to those to ensure the end result is what they want. I was also drawn to what Ally had to say regarding advice for students. As a senior graduate in May I found her input on keeping an open mind and utilizing resources around you beneficial. I feel that a lot of the time we have our mind set on one job title or career path, however, it is important to remain open to new and different opportunities.
Ally’s experience at The Kasper Group is interesting because it poses a different look on sourcing jobs available to graduates. Her responsibilities tf approving and rejecting fabrication colors, qualities, and hand feels is something I hadn’t previous thought of being a full-time job, but it truly connects the pieces of the design process to the consumer. While reading this article, I particularly found it interesting that The Kasper Group owns Jones New York and Jones New York Signature which operates in two extremes different segments. This brand is also exciting to learn about because so many consumers are familiar with it! After reading Ally’s comments on sustainable fabric choices, I am wondering if the company operates differently in sustainable choices depending on the brand they are sourcing for. For example, Jones New York appeals to a more wealthy clientele at Dillard’s, compared to the Signature brand at TJ Maxx. Often times, consumers who have more purchasing power are likely to ficus on and support sustainable materials, whereas those who do not have excess money are looking for products at the cheapest price point. I am curious if this is a factor in sourcing materials for different brands to ensure the customer is satisfied both financially and socially. Furthermore, because The Kasper Group provides products to large retailers and department stores, I would be curious to know how the sustainability incentives differ and if there are various regulations they need to follow internally with the companies that they contract with. For TJMaxx, are there different sustainability regulations that The Kasper Group must follow versus supplying inventory to Macy’s? Sustainability has become such a complex, yet important discussion in the industry and supplying products to various mass retailers poses a new sustainability challenge both internally and externally.
I found these insights on textile raw material sourcing very interesting. When I used to think about fabric selection, I really only considered the physical aspects, like hand feel, fiber content, or overall quality. But learning that larger geopolitical factors, such as cotton traceability and ethical sourcing also plays a major role in sourcing really makes the whole process seem so complex. It’s clear that the role requires not only an eye for design, but also a strong knowledge of global supply chains and sustainability. It seems like a lot of information to know. I’m wondering what the best way is to stay up to date with new fabric innovations and sustainability trends while working in such a fast-paced environment.
I enjoyed this interview with Ally working as a textile assistant at the Kasper Group. While her main job is to buy and keep track of all fabrics for Jones New York, her job also offers other aspects such as fabric sourcing, material selection, budgeting, and staying in communication with textile mills overseas. Ally and her team also have to make sure the fabric fits the needs of their target consumer by ensuring its stylish, comfortable, fits with the brand, stays on budget, and is functional for everyday wear. It’s exciting to hear that her company is shifting to incorporating recycled polyester in its garments to try and be more sustainable. One question that was raised during this interview was “if sourcing recycled cotton from Asia brings up labor concerns, why not shift to sourcing recycled cotton from the US? Is it too expensive?”
Reading the interview with Ally Botwinick helped provide a glimpse into the detailed work of textile sourcing and production management. Her role which involves coordinated fabric orders for brands like jones new york and managing denim sourcing across multiple areas seems very complex and requires precision when working in the fashion industry’s supply chain. What really stood out to me was ally’s emphasis on the communication with overseas mills regarding fabric approvals and focusing on aspects like color accuracy, quality and hand feel. It sounds like a job i would be interested in honestly. Allys collaboration with multiple teams including design, production, costing and even color departments shows how interconnected the roles in the industry are and makes me excited for my future job.
I really enjoyed reading about all of Ally’s experiences working for the Kasper Group! As a fashion management minor, prior to our FASH455 class I have not had a lot of experience learning about textile raw material sourcing. I have found this topic to be very interesting to learn about this semester and loved hearing from someone who does this in the real world. I really enjoyed how open and honest Ally was about the tasks she completes in her role. I was surprised to learn that the process of fabric selection is enough to quantify as a full-time position. It is so interesting to imagine being in Ally’s shoes and working so hands-on with product all day. As someone with most likely less experience and knowledge about fabric sourcing compared to others in the class (as I am a fashion minor and not major), I found this interview to be very informative. Before reading Ally’s statements, I really only thought about cost and quality, or the hands-on feel of fabric as decision factors, however, I now know that brands consider much more than this! I never would have even thought to consider trends within the fabric like Ally discussed, such as whether it flares or if it will shrink and how to base a decision on these answers. Ally’s interview gave me a glimpse into the interesting role of a textile assistant and the job of fabric sourcing. I really enjoyed reading this interview!
I thought Ally’s insights on the fashion industry and production were very interesting. Her experience goes into detail about how complex the sourcing process is. There are so many approvals and considerations that go into sourcing. Her explanation of sustainability and its challenges were also very interesting. I didn’t realize the difference between sourcing recycled polyester and recycled cotton. Her background is very inspirational and informative. I believe that fashion students can benefit from hearing her story and experiences within the industry.
I really enjoyed learning about Ally’s role as a Textile Assistant at The Kasper Group. I also really appreciated her advice on exploring different potential careers by pursuing areas of the fashion industry that is interesting through learning about different roles in classes at UD. I also really enjoyed learning that consumer preferences shifting towards more sustainable choices has led her work to gravitate towards recycled fabrics such as recycled polyester. It is very interesting to see how consumers’ shifting demands directly impacts fashion companies’ sourcing, fabric, or any type of buying decisions. I also enjoyed learning that Ally’s role consists of collaboration between many other positions at that company.
I loved hearing about Ally Botwinick’s job as a Textile Assistant at The Kasper Group. It helped me understand the fabric sourcing side of the industry more, this side of the industry isn’t really talked about in depth. It was interesting to learn just how much communicating is a part of her daily routine, like talking to the factories overseas, tracking approvals and rejections, and constantly updating her fabric WIP charts. This just goes to show how connected every part of the product development process really is. It was really interesting to me how many things are considered when choosing fabric, such as hand feel, price, fiber content, and traceability. I liked that Ally also touched on sustainability, especially with the rise in recycled polyester and the problems of tracing recycled cotton. It’s good to see that companies are starting to pay attention to this. Finally, Ally’s advice to students resonated with me. I loved what she said about being open to a lot of different opportunities because you never know what you are going to love. This interview was a great reminder of just how many different jobs there are in fashion beyond just design and buying.
Ally’s interview really opened my eyes on how thoughtful and strategic fabric sourcing really is. I have learned about the significance of raw materials and sourcing in class, but getting specifics on how the process functions on a day-to-day basis at a company such as The Kasper Group made the process feel all too real. The first thing I noticed is just how much of Ally’s job is about cross-functional communication. She’s constantly collaborating with plant teams, design teams, costing teams and color teams. This blog post also showed me that sourcing is not merely picking fabric, it’s communicating, solving problems, and figuring out what’s next to avoid any delays or quality issues. I also liked the kind words from Ally to keep an open mind. It’s really comforting for someone about to step into the industry to hear that even the jobs you hadn’t thought about, such as being a textile assistant, can turn out to be really rewarding. Her story made me remember that it’s always good to stay curious and learn how the various parts of the fashion industry connect.
I really appreciated this article highlighting Ally Botwinick and her career journey. As a fellow 4+1 student and fashion merchandising major, hearing Ally’s story was extremely reassuring and exciting, as it helps me to better navigate my journey as a young professional. Ally has a very impressive journey. Her experience working in both policy and textiles demonstrates not only the vastness of the fashion industry but also the exciting possibilities that the future holds in store within this career. Hearing about Ally’s job with The Kasper Group really demonstrates the diverse skillset required within the fashion industry. Ally’s responsibilities consisted of both social and technical skills, having to work cross functionally, communicate quickly and effectively, track approvals and rejections, and work with suppliers oversees. I am impressed by her dynamic skillset and really hope to become as adaptive as she has since graduating.
This interview with Ally Botwinick was incredibly insightful and enlightening. I think that getting to read about her evolution from a UD student to so many different roles in sourcing is really inspiring and helpful to gauge what I want to do post graduation. When I did an internship in product development, I got to go through some of the processes she describes as a part of her workload like communicating with textile mills/factories overseas about fabric approvals or rejections based on fabric color, quality, and hand feel, organizing fabric references, releasing comments to the mills, matching color standards, creating WIP charts, and working with other teams. I think it’s comforting to know that this process is similar in every company. However, I thought it was really interesting that her focus is on textile sourcing because there are so many processes she described that align with the material in this course that I never considered. For example, gaining cotton certifications to ensure ethical production, researching new fabrics, understanding lead times that can be affected by foreign and domestic policies like tariffs, understanding regions of sourcing, and noticing the impact of sustainability on both the sourcing process and the industry as a whole.
This interview with Ally Botwinick was very interesting and insightful, and it is always amazing to hear success stories of graduated UD fashion students. Before reading this interview, I had not heard of a Textile Assistant position. This seems really interesting and definitely requires a lot of knowledge of textiles and yarns. I think a lot of what we learned in our Textiles I and II classes could be very beneficial when holding a position like this. Personally, I have always been interesting in the marketing side of things rather than the development side, so it is always interesting to hear what goes on behind the scenes. Some of the information she shared, specifically that about textiles and materials often coming from Asian countries, really backs up the information we learned in class and proves that this course is relevant today. I appreciated her advice of finding classes at UD that you were passionate about, and trying to build your career off of that!
I really appreciated all of the valuable insights from Ally Botwinick as a UD Fashion Alumn and current Textile Assistant at The Kasper Group in NYC. It is so interesting to consider the fact that her day-to-day tasks for work involves communicating with people across seas for things like color matching and fabric approval. Without this global communication, her job would not be able to get done. Something else I also found particularly interesting was her observations that sustainability is continuing to shape the textile sourcing industry, with recycled polyester growing quickly in adoption because of traceability concerns and quality advantages that recycled cotton does not have.