Tag: product development

FASH455 Exclusive Interview with Hannah Laurits, Fabric Lab Textile Coordinator at Swim USA, about Fabrics and Apparel Sourcing

About Hannah Laurits

Hello! My name is Hannah Laurits, and I am currently working as a Textile Lab Fabric Coordinator at Swim USA. I graduated from the Master of Science program in Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware in 2024. Through the program, I had the opportunity to work on various research projects, ranging from adaptive apparel to sustainable textiles. During my time at UD, I also had the privilege of teaching Fash133 Foundations for Fashion Innovation, which was an incredibly rewarding experience.

In addition to my master’s degree, I hold a Bachelor of Science in Apparel Design and Fashion Merchandising from the University of Delaware. Throughout my academic journey, I completed internships related to textiles and sourcing, which played a significant role in shaping my career and led me to my current position at Swim USA. I am passionate about the intersection of textile innovation, sustainability, and sourcing, and I’m excited to share insights from my experiences in the industry.

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this interview are those of Hannah Laurits and do not reflect the views or positions of her employer or any affiliated organizations.

Sheng: What are your main responsibilities as a fabric lab textile coordinator? What does a typical day look like? Which aspects of the job do you find particularly interesting or unexpected before taking on the role?

Hannah: As a Fabric Lab Textile Coordinator, I work to ensure that the fabrics that go into our products meet both our internal quality standards as well as the standards of our customers and the global textile industry. In the lab, we mainly focus on quality control, which includes ensuring that the fabrics we use in production meet specific quality standards.

In my role, a typical day may include visually and/or digitally reviewing colors to ensure that they align with our established standards. Additionally, each day consists of a variety of testing and analysis of results to ensure that they meet brand requirements. I also assist with raw materials development, particularly in the areas of color and fabric testing for various brands. One key aspect of my work is analyzing testing data to identify risks, areas for improvement, and potential delays in production. The best part of my role is the variety of tasks I’m involved in, the opportunity to work on multiple brands, and the extensive cross-functional collaboration I get to participate in. From color matching and testing to analyzing data and working directly with various teams, no two days are ever the same. The level of collaboration across departments has been extremely helpful, allowing me to learn from different areas of the business and broaden my skill set.

Sheng: In general, what factors should be considered when selecting fabrics in product development and apparel sourcing?

Hannah: When selecting fabrics for product development and sourcing, there are many factors to consider, including but not limited to cost, quality, durability, color and dyeing process, fiber content, intended use, sustainability, lead times, availability, and compliance with regulations. In my role, understanding the fabric composition, color, and dyeing process, as well as the intended final use is essential. Different fibers and dyestuffs have inherent properties that can affect the fabric’s appearance and colorfastness, so it’s crucial to understand how they will perform in the final product. This knowledge helps determine whether achieving a specific color while maintaining the desired quality is feasible. By carefully considering these factors, we ensure that the product meets both aesthetic and performance standards.

Sheng: Part of your job involves testing fabrics. What needs to be tested, and what are the main issues involved in the quality control of fabrics?

Hannah:A large part of my role involves testing fabrics to ensure they meet the required standards. There are a variety of tests that need to be completed, and they generally fall into two main categories: color fastness and physical properties. Color fastness testing is conducted to ensure that the fabric retains its color and/or does not run when exposed to various factors, such as washing, sunlight, or exposure to chlorine. Physical property testing helps ensure that the fabric will meet the required performance standards. This includes testing for qualities like weight, stretch, and dimensional stability. These tests are essential to make sure the final product fits well and performs as expected for the consumer.

Sheng: From your observation, how has sustainability impacted the selection and sourcing of textile materials for fashion companies? How is “sustainability” assessed for fabrics? What emerging trends are worth watching?

Hannah: Sustainability is a major focus in the textile and apparel industry, continuously evolving and shaping how fashion companies approach textile research, development, and sourcing. There is a noticeable shift towards prioritizing eco-friendly materials and minimizing environmental footprint. Sustainability can be assessed in many ways in fabrics throughout a fabric’s entire lifecycle – from raw material sourcing to end-of-life disposal. It is important to consider not only the environmental impact but also the social and ethical aspects of fiber cultivation and fabric production, ensuring that workers’ rights are also prioritized. From what I have observed in the market, the most accessible and widely adopted sustainable fabrics tend to be recycled, organic, or plant-based materials. However, there are many other emerging trends worth watching. These include waterless or low-water dyeing technologies, eco-friendly finishes and treatments, regenerative agriculture, and innovative fiber development. 

Sheng: Following up on the previous question, is it true or a myth that sustainable fabrics are typically more expensive and increase production costs? If so, how can companies balance sustainability with cost-effectiveness?

Hannah:While sustainable fabrics can sometimes be more expensive, it’s not always the case. Factors such as higher initial investments in sustainable technologies, costs of production, the smaller scale of production, and the costs associated with certifications can make sustainable fabrics more costly. However, it is still possible for companies to balance sustainability with cost-effectiveness. Sustainable practices often bring long-term benefits, such as risk reduction, improved durability, and increased brand value. Further, as more brands shift towards and invest in sustainable material innovation, we can expect these fabrics to become more affordable and available over time.

Sheng: Based on your experience, can you offer any advice to our students regarding preparing for a career in the fashion apparel industry? What could they do at UD? What is the benefit of getting a master’s degree in fashion and apparel?

Hannah: My advice to students is to get involved as much as possible. Internships are a great way to gain hands-on experience. If internships aren’t available, networking and learning from professionals in the industry are invaluable. At UD, there are numerous opportunities to take advantage of, like research projects, clubs, and career fairs to build connections and expand your knowledge. I have found that a master’s degree in Fashion and Apparel has provided me with a strong foundation which has helped me secure a career and be successful in the industry. I often find myself referring to course topics and key skills I learned in graduate school such as data analysis.

Additionally, if any students soon graduating are interested in Swim USA, below is information from our HR department on how they search for talent. “For entry-level roles, we typically use Handshake as a great way to reach upcoming graduates or recent alumni. I would advise them to register and look at opportunities there. If they haven’t already, they should also ensure their LinkedIn profile is up to date and has a nice professional picture. Start following companies that you might be interested in, like SWIM USA, to see new or open roles first. They are also welcome to follow our Swim USA careers page for more information.”

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Product Development and Apparel Sourcing: FASH455 Exclusive Interview with Abby Edge, Product Development Associate at Eileen Fisher

About Abby Edge

Abby Edge is the Product Development associate at Eileen Fisher, where she supports key initiatives in sourcing and sustainability. She graduated from the University of Delaware (UD) in 2020 with a degree in Fashion Merchandising. During her time at UD, she developed a passion for sustainable sourcing and social responsibility, which led her to pursue a career with a company that aligns with these values. Abby also served as a teaching assistant for FASH455 in Spring 2020 and was the co-author of How will EU Trade Curb Affect Cambodia’s Apparel Industry published in Just-Style.

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this interview are those of Abby Edge and do not reflect the views or positions of her employer or any affiliated organizations.

Sheng: What does a Product Development Associate do? Can you walk us through your typical day at Eileen Fisher? Also, what makes you love your job?

Abby: Product development can mean different things at different companies, but at Eileen Fisher (EF) it means costing and development prior to product development (PO). All samples, fabrics, and costs need to be approved during the Product Development period before the business teams place their buys. Every day, I communicate with our vendors to cost styles and create time & action plans so that delivery will be met. We work with our vendors and fabric mills to align and finalize pricing to achieve our margin goals. We also must think strategically about material and vendor allocation to improve lead times and mitigate carbon footprint.

I work hybrid, and our beautiful office is on the Hudson River in Irvington, New York. I enjoy going into the office to spend time with my team and review the product in person. I love my job because I am exposed to so many new and exciting sustainability initiatives every day. I admire everything that EF stands for and that we can promote a “less is more” wardrobe.

Sheng: What are the key steps involved in product development, and how do you collaborate with your sourcing team throughout this process?

Abby: At Eileen Fisher, there are two main stages of the product development process before “commitment”: “development” and “dupe.” At the development stage, we focus on any new materials that are being added to the line. We make sure the costing, testing, and lead times are workable. Then, at the dupe stage, we cost and sample the entire product line so that the merchandising and buying teams have all the information they need to place their buys. After commitment, we pass the baton to the Production team to finalize quantities, issue purchase orders, and track orders. Together, the Product Development

Sheng: Sustainability is a key focus in the fashion apparel industry today. From the product development perspective, what notable improvements have been made in recent years, and where do opportunities lie for further progress?

Abby: Eileen Fisher is leading the way in sustainability within the fashion industry, and it has been incredibly rewarding to be a part of a team where this principle is integrated into every aspect. For example, materials are at the core of EF. We focus on natural, organic, and regenerative materials and steer away from synthetics. Regenerative organic cotton is a new material that I’m really excited about. It all starts with the health of the farm and the people growing our cotton. The regenerative organic certification means that the cotton is grown holistically and healthily, contributing to the soil’s health and mitigating the impacts of climate change.

Additionally, the certification has strict social responsibility guidelines, requiring a living wage and safe working conditions for all farmers. This is just one example of innovative improvements that are being made in the material sector. Others include Lenzing Tencel lyocell, regenerative responsible wool, and organic linen.

Another key initiative at Eileen Fisher is our take-back program called “Renew,” where customers bring back their old EF garments in exchange for a $5 store credit. Since the program started in 2009, 2 million garments have been collected. Of the 2 million, 660,885 have been re-sold in stores, and the rest have been donated, repurposed, or downcycled. Some of my favorite EF pieces have actually been purchased from the store’s renewal section! It is also great to see other brands following suit and creating take-back and recycling programs. Clothing waste is an industry-wide problem; we need all hands on deck to make a difference.

Sheng: From your observation, how has the adoption of digital technologies transformed the practices of product development and apparel sourcing?

Abby: Our Product lifecycle management (PLM) system— Centric— has helped streamline the design and product development process tremendously. All teams have access to the PLM system, which allows everyone to be on the same page and easily access any information they might need. For example, designers use the system to set up styles and tech packs, whereas the merchandising team uses the system to line plan and set retails. In my role, I use PLM to enter and land costs and analyze margins. It is dynamic and provides everyone the key tools to succeed while working on multiple seasons at once.

Sheng: Are there any other major trends in the fashion industry that we should closely monitor in the next 1-2 years, particularly in product development and sourcing?

Abby: Traceability and transparency have become increasingly important in the industry. Technology platforms are emerging that can ensure transparency throughout all supply chain tiers using a digital “fiber coin.” The specific platform we use— Textile Genesis—maps the supply chain from fiber to retail to verify any sustainable fibers so that all claims we make are valid. In other words, they ensure the “transactions” between each supply chain step (fiber to yarn to fabric to garment) are authentic. It has been very exciting to see this project come to life, and I feel that platforms like this will become increasingly more prominent in the coming years.

Sheng: What reflections can you share from your experiences at UD and FASH? what advice would you offer to current students preparing for a career in product development and apparel sourcing?

Abby: I am so grateful for my time at UD in the FASH program. I made so many connections with my peers, professors, and alums that have helped me get to where I am now. My advice to current students is to get involved as much as possible, whether through study abroad programs, internships, or clubs. Don’t limit yourself or close yourself off to areas of the industry and embrace any opportunity you get, as you never know where it could lead. My internship with Under Armour in Hong Kong through the FASH study abroad program really helped me grow personally and professionally and I would not be where I am without that experience.

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FASH455 Exclusive Interview with Jennifer Pisula, Fabric Sourcing Manager at QVC, about Why Fabric Sourcing Matters

About Jennifer Pisula

Jennifer Pisula is a Fabric Sourcing Manager at QVC. Jennifer is also a member of the Cotton Board, appointed by the U.S. Secretary of Agriculture.

Jennifer has over ten years of experience in the corporate retail industry, where she first started her career as a Buyer at Qurate for QVC, buying for brands such as Isaac Mizrahi, Liz Claiborne, and C. Wonder. Given her love for Product Development and Production, Jennifer shifted her career to Sourcing at QVC where she traveled to China, Hong Kong, and Vietnam for factory and mill visits. Jennifer left QVC to be the Sourcing lead for URBN’s Anthropologie Plus line and the lead for Free People Movement Pre-Production and Production. In 2020, Jennifer returned to Qurate to lead the Fabric Sourcing team for QVC, where she manages sourcing & R&D for over 20 brands, working on both celebrity and core private label brands. Jennifer also works part-time as an Adjunct Professor at Immaculata University, where she teaches Textiles and Fashion Portfolio Development. In addition to her professional positions,

Jennifer Pisula graduated from the Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design M.S. program from the University of Rhode Island & earned a B.S. in Fashion Merchandising from Mercyhurst University.

The interview was conducted by Leah Marsh, a graduate student in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware. Leah’s research focused on​​ exploring EU retailers’ sourcing strategies for clothing made from recycled textile materials and fashion companies’ supply chain and sourcing strategies.

The interview is part of the 2023 Cotton in the Curriculum program, supported by Cotton Incorporated, to develop open educational resources (OER) for global apparel sourcing classes.

FASH455 Industry/Internship Stories—Hannah Laurits, Haddad Brands

Hannah Laurits (second from the right) worked as a sourcing intern for Haddad Brands in New York City in the summer of 2023. In the picture, Hannah was visiting the company’s world class distribution center in New Jersey.

About Hannah Laurits

Hannah Laurits is a master’s student in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies (FASH) at the University of Delaware (UD). She also received her B.S. from UD & FASH with a double major in apparel design and fashion merchandising and management.

Hannah is passionate about adaptive clothing and making the fashion industry more inclusive and sustainable. She has participated in several related research projects, including working at UD’s Health and Innovation Lab and designing adaptive clothing for children with Down syndrome. Hannah’s master’s thesis explores U.S. retailers’ merchandising and business strategies for adaptive clothing. As a graduate instructor, Hannah teaches FASH133 (Foundations for Fashion Innovation), an important foundational course for FASH freshmen. Hannah is the recipient of the 2023 International Textiles and Apparel Association (ITAA) Sara Douglas Fellowship in recognition of her academic excellence and accomplishments.

During the summer of 2023, Hannah had the exceptional opportunity to work as a sourcing intern for Haddad Brands in New York City. Below, she shared her reflections on this incredible internship experience.

Question: What does a typical day look like during your sourcing internship with Haddad?

Hannah: Each day, I would enter Haddad’s beautiful Manhattan office and make my way up to my desk on the 10th floor, which was home to the design and sourcing departments. I had the opportunity to sit next to my mentor and assist her in her day-to-day tasks as a Fabric and Trim Research &Development (R&D) Manager. This often consisted of maintaining fabric/trim development digital and physical libraries, creating new fabric swatch headers, entering fabric/trim data in PLM, partnering with Product Development to establish fabric and trim codes for PLM, and analyzing new fabric developments. I also assisted in collaborating and developing fabrications, finishes, and trims with our supply chain by communicating feedback via internal emails.

One thing that  I really enjoyed was that each day consisted of working cross-functionally with the different teams. I helped prepare for and sit in on weekly fabric/trim development status meetings with the various Design teams where fabric/trim developments for the upcoming seasons were discussed and designers would make new fabric requests for their added styles. I also sat in on bi-weekly fabric/trim development status meetings with the Product Approval team to ensure the fabric samples from mills were up to standard for development. Here, I was able to help weigh in on fabrics and compare them to our standards to determine if they met our requirements or if they needed to be changed and how. Additionally, some days included meetings with various suppliers to discuss innovations in fiber, fabric, finish, and trim.

Being part of an internship that enabled me to perform meaningful work from day one, provided countless opportunities for personal growth, and exposed me to working with some of the most iconic global brands (e.g., Levi’s) was a truly fulfilling experience.

Question: Any major projects did you work on during your internship? What did you learn from the experiences?

Hannah:Each Haddad Legacy Intern was assigned and worked on a project for their department based upon a real business need. Based on my educational background and my passion for sustainability, my team outlined a project that would best fit. This involved researching innovative sustainable solutions and sourcing practices to further their sustainability efforts.

My research was not only conducted from outside sources but from internal ones as well. I felt an immense amount of support from all of the individuals who helped me accomplish this project and was excited to learn that they also are just as excited about sustainable practices as I am. At the end of the internship, each intern had the chance to present to senior management our individual projects. This experience taught me how to create a visually compelling presentation and relay large amounts of data concisely and effectively.

Question: What insights did you learn about the fashion apparel industry from the internship? For example, the key issues the industry cares about or the challenges it faces.

Hannah:From my internship experience, I was able to see firsthand key topics important to the fashion/apparel industry; specifically, two areas caught my attention.

First, sustainability and social responsibility. Consumers and investors are seeking more sustainable products and better practices from the brands they love. Considering this, sustainability-forward brands are focused on maintaining their high values regarding these areas and keeping their practices aligned with them.

Second, the fashion industry is constantly seeking innovative technology solutions, including in the sourcing and supply chain areas. Technology is evolving faster than ever, helping create efficient solutions to drive the fashion industry forward. Technologies such as 3D printing, AI, laser cutting, and more are being used to improve the industry in various ways such as trend forecasting, supply chain, and consumer experience, just to name a few. Even regarding sustainability, many fashion brands are investing in or actively exploring new technology solutions to help them develop a more sustainable and ethical supply chain and improve sourcing transparency, traceability, and accountability.

Question: How do your learning experiences at FASH help with your internship? Any specific knowledge or skill sets do you find most critical?

Hannah:FASH had a great influence on my decision to pursue a sourcing internship with Haddad Brands. It was through the UD & FASH department’s Fashion Career Meetup that I was able to connect with the amazing HR team at Haddad Brands and learn more about the company.

Specifically, it was FASH455 (Global Apparel Trade and Sourcing) that piqued my interest in the world of sourcing and provided foundational knowledge for my internship. Working in fabric research and development, on a daily basis, I referred back to key concepts from FASH215 (Fundamentals of Textiles I) and FASH220 (Fundamentals of Textiles II) on fiber, yarn, fabric, structures, color, and finish. Additionally, the FASH Social Responsibility and Sustainability certificate courses played a unique role in my experience, helping me bring a sustainability forward perspective into my internship and providing a solid background to further build upon for my internship project.

Furthermore, the FASH department at UD excels at providing students with extensive foundational fashion industry knowledge. Not only is the course curriculum excellent, but so is the faculty who goes above and beyond to help foster student’s education and build critical professional skills.

Question: What’s your plan after graduation?

Hannah:I am currently working on wrapping up my master’s program and am on track to graduate in May 2024. I am seeking a full-time role that allows me to have a hand in developing products that have a positive impact on people and the planet. Potential roles include sustainability, social compliance, sourcing, product development, and product line management related to fashion apparel products. While I am originally from Delaware, I am hoping to relocate to a city on the East Coast such as NYC, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. However, I am open to considering job opportunities and locations beyond this scope. As my graduation approaches, I am eager to begin my career in the fashion apparel industry.

Meanwhile, I am actively seeking winter and spring internship opportunities in the greater Philadelphia area or remote positions to enhance my professional development.

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